Fork seal replacement

[GOOSE_SP2]

Ok goto replace my fork seals because one has gone, had a look on David Silvers at the seal kit, is that all i need and what grade fork oil should go in as standard...any advice will be gratefully received

[Chip]

Honda SS-8 is the standard fork oil (10 wt), I like Motul Pro synthetic 10wt. You'll need the oil seals, dust seals, and clips. It's a good idea to replace the slider bushings while you're in there. I used Racetech superslick teflon bushings in my forks

[SubSailor]

Depending on the ambient temperature, 10 wt might be too heavy.
If you find your forks harsh on bump (high-velocity) damping, you might try 7 or even 5 weight fork oil.
You can also mix two different weights for in-between weight numbers.
Buy 2 liters of oil as each fork will need slightly over .5 liter per leg.

I see by your name that you have an SP2.
Be careful if you or a shop is disassembling your forks.
The SP2 fork caps are different than the SP1 fork caps and the removal procedure also differs.
One forum member already had his damper rod damaged by a shop that didn't know this.
The SP2 fork cap is similar to the 2004 CBR1000RR or 954 fork caps. I refer to this during removal.

As for the damper rod adjust case nut and fork cap lock nut, I'd suggest buying a set of open-end combo tappet wrenches in sizes 12 & 14mm and 17 & 19mm (4mm in thickness). Regular wrenches are too thick.
And the Race-Tech fork spring compressor quickly pays for itself if you work on your forks often.

[tonto sp1]

Hi mate, did my forks a couple of weeks ago.All pretty straightforward stuff tbh..After a lot of phoning around the general answer to fork oil weight was 10wt.Which is what i went for..Just take you,re time plus theres plenty of tips and pics on the web if you get stuck..
dont know if this helps..But do remember sp1 and sp2 are different as mentioned earlier ..Let us know how you get on.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W2G-b66F3es..

[Sppete]

My 2p's worth.
a bit late I know but what the hay!
All good advise above, the only thing I would add is have a good look at the friction materials Chip mentioned. If there is any wear or scuffing in them I would change them. If they are unmarked they might not need changing. I don't know how much they cost but I do know if you don't change em and they needed it, you'll only have to do it all again soon

oh and if you have a bit of spare cash, pop some hyperpro progressive spings in whilst you have them in bits, you'll love the results

[GOOSE_SP2]

Thanks to all for the above advice, have decided to get them overhaul'd buy REVS in Halesowen with a ride in ride out service and get the standard forks/shock setup for the road and to my weight.

[Dmac]

Thought I would stick this in here to keep all the fork info in the one place.

I had to do my fork seals recently, Here are a few hints and tips

http://www.fireblades.org/forums/articl ... ation.html

This guy has a good guide for the Fireblade 954 fork which is very similar to the SP2 fork.

Not strictly needed but makes life easier - fork spring compressor.
I slapped this together. The plastic spring spacer inside the fork has two 6mm holes in it. So I used two long M6 bolts and cut the heads off them - so they then fit in these holes. The bolt with the vicegrip on it can slide in and out to hold or release the spring spacer. It would have been better to leave more room above the pins to have clearance for rebound adjuster. But it just fits as shown.

The pins are positioned about 4 inches higher than the top of the fork.
To compress the bottom of the fork I used a 3ft long piece of timber like a see-saw, sit on one end, have another piece of timber as a pivot about 6 inches from the wall and have the other end under the bottom of the fork.

The last time I managed to fit the seal with a thin blunt punch, working around the circumference - but it was an absolute nightmare - kept popping back out.
So this time I used this


It is the end of a plumbing fitting I hacksawed off. You have to wrap insulation tape aroung the stanchon to space the plastic away from the lip of the fork seal, about 10 or 15 wraps around should do it. Then clamp the plastic, on the insulation tape, with the smooth side facing the seal with the jublee clip. now you use the outer fork tube as a seal driver and in it goes
Just keep an eye on it, so that the plactic does not move back and the tape could then damage the seal.

One last thing, Allways loosen the top yoke pinch bolt and handlebar pinch bolt before you try to undo the fork cap.